Gucci kicked off Milan fashion week today and the whole super cool Gucci gang (Petra Collins, A$AP Rocky, Dakota Johnson etc etc etc) was there to bare witness. The setting suggested they were about to see something different for Spring 2018, courtesy of beloved creative director Alessandro Michele; the runway, which winded through art deco benches and glowed an electric blue, was meant to represent Rome’s Tiber River. Egyptian, Aztec and Indian sculptures dotted the space and the soundtrack for Requiem for a Dream blared over the speakers (you know the one). It was, unfortunately, a whole lot of sound and fury, signifying nothing.
The collection, which boasted a whopping 108 looks (108 looks!) was your standard Michele for Gucci fare. Mismatched prints? Check. Wire-rimmed glasses and feathered hair that looked plucked from the 70s? Check. Ponchos? Check. Super loud monograms? Check. Tracksuits? Check. Fanny packs, florals, very sellable, logo-heavy sweatshirts, art-deco sunglasses, sequins, “modernized” applications of the Gucci stripes. Check, check, check, check, check. I’m not saying it didn’t look dope. I’m not saying I don’t want it all. But I am saying that I wouldn’t be surprised to hear Michele had taken items from previous seasons, styled them a little bit differently and sent them floating down the Tiber River (note to Michele, that would be a great troll). Sure, there were a couple standout moments (with 108 looks one would hope there would be a couple standout moments). The exaggerated shoulders, the Bowie-esque technicolor suits and Asian-inspired touches broke the mold, but these moments (which were literally all over the map) are lost in the dizzying quantity of garments.
There’s no question that Michele has breathed a youthful excitement into a house that was losing its mojo and the seemingly endless amount of garments are highly covetable. But before look 10 of his latest offering (which cited Bob Mackie’s designs for Elton John as inspiration, btw) I was like, okay, I get it. I’m sure it will receive the requisite praise, but are we all just going to sit back and pretend these collections don’t all look the same? Sorry, fam, I’m not here for it.
Check out Gucci’s Spring 2018 show in its entirety here.