Thanks to Miuccia Prada
and now RAF SIMONS
, the ‘collar askew’ is set to be the look for boys of a ruffled feather this fall. Like Prada, Simons’s language is so refined, you can recognize his design from a Berghain dance floor away. Season highlights include the extra long collars and finger fumbling sleeves under turtlenecks, the bondage tape filling in the blanks of lapel notches, and the question mark head motif. Like, what does anything mean?
A rockabilly curl of the hair, an impressionistic camo print, black leather cable knit, matching leather sweatpants, so many moto jackets, and a patchwork of stripes; all you really need to know about 3.1 PHILLIP LIM is that the designer is calling it “Escape From Bourgeoisie Island."
21st century self-portrait as a meme designer
Nicola Formichetti’s MUGLER
man was enlisted to wear full combat fatigue: bulletproof vests, bomber jackets, and pilot Trekkie suits. A siren neon pink triangle? We asked, he told: it’s about, "the ability to become somebody else in the digital world." Oooohh...
This season, YOHJI YAMAMOTO was inspired by that crazy regular from your Soho-local independent bookstore who you know is like self-made wealthy, has casual pets, and lives in a nearby palace like Julian Schnabel’s loft in the Basquiat biopic. Butcher’s aprons, kilts, fun fur: three cheers for the art world.
The press release for DRIES VAN NOTEN Fall 2013 said “the morning after.” No wonder the whole collection reminds me of my friend Monique, she who glows in a perpetual state of morning after. Disheveled chic — just-fucked-me misbuttoned shirts, bathrobes, pjs, wool sweatpants, and sandals with mohair socks. Show off.
The techno-sporty trend continues in ISSEY MIYAKE. His athletic icons: the bike messenger and the stoner snowboarder. For the former we get practical windbreakers, shorts over leggings, and messenger bags; and for the later, cropped snow pants, parachute backpacks, and emergency blanket gold foil jackets.
Turtlenecks and sweatpants look to be the Fall 2013 men's must haves and Junichi Abe at KOLOR gave us good ones. He balanced the leisure with outdoorsy workwear like contrast stitched indigo, puff vests, and bucket hats.
The mountaintop is having a moment. More stoned snowboard bum looks care of Californian RICK OWENS. Btdubs, the hair, it's titled "Boy Chantilly."
It’s hot. But what does it mean?