One suggestion that’s been made on the merit of Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent is that, in making “real grunge” for the high market, Hedi is acting like a superficial Robin Hood: taking the power and prestige of the old label and delivering it to the kids. The kids don’t even have to buy Saint Laurent, no one does, because one can (and many already do) assemble these looks from thrift and high street shops; Hedi’s Saint Laurent adaptation is that authentic. So power is diffused, as high fashion’s obsession with youth culture gets a warranted middle finger. I’m only like 15% convinced of the argument but I’m 100% convinced that, if this is the case, I’d rather opt for the thrifty mix Marc Jacobs put out at Louis Vuitton yesterday. Yesterday, day nine of Paris Fashion Week, was the last day of runways until Resort or Couture or Singapore or whatever comes next. We end, as always, with two of the best: Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu. Marc’s Fall 2013 Louis Vuitton look was very Proust the recluse: don your finest pyjamas under a heavy overcoat and call it a nostalgic night. Miu Miu also looked to Paris’s past. The collection was, in two words, forties unzipped. Miuccia continued her romance with that most-under-appreciated decade, specifically Paris’s take on la Belle Époque in the forties, but spinning it sporty with zippers and nylon, which, by the way, first came to commercial use in the forties. The more you know, the more you’ll be like Miuccia.