Fashion

Our Favorite Looks From Day Five of PFW #insideout #undone #borrowed

Fashion

Our Favorite Looks From Day Five of PFW #insideout #undone #borrowed

ACNE STUDIOS
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
COMME DES GARCONS
ANN-SOFIE BACK ATELJE
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
JUNYA WATANABE
TSUMORI CHISATO
PEDRO LOURENCO
VIKTOR & ROLF
HAIDER ACKERMANN
+

The insides were on the outside yesterday in Paris. At Acne Studios, creative director Jonny Johansson, in collaboration with artist Katerina Jebb, designed a collection drawn from the archives at the Musée Galliera of the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. Johansson and Jebb sought to showcase the unique construction of historical garments by mimicking them inside out. Rei Kawakubo, meanwhile, pursued what she called an “infinity of tailoring” for Comme des Garçons, where bulbous twists and turns of spiraling fabric grew tumorously from classic short and pant suits. To show how it’s made, one can show it undone. And that’s what Junya Watanabe, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Haider Ackermann did: Junya patched moto-leather to worn denim, boucle, and plaid in unusual and beautiful proportions; Jean Paul rested on his laurels with deconstructed corsets; and Ackermann had assemblies falling off the body. Finally, the dress shirts at Viktor and Rolf came both ruffled like feathers and crumpled like paper, and Tsumori Chisato borrowed, obviously, from Yves Saint Laurent.