Fashion

BULLETT Exclusive: Moses Gauntlett Cheng’s AW ’15 Lookbook

Fashion

BULLETT Exclusive: Moses Gauntlett Cheng’s AW ’15 Lookbook

Velvet rose top, felted knit mini
Knit slub tank, tartan crop flare
Slub knit coat
Felted knit logo cardi, low rise velvet jean
Moth hole sweater, moth hole wrap skirt
"I'm so sorry" wrap jacket, felted knit house pants
Baby blanket coat
Velvet "night before" dress
"I'm so tired" top
Felt dread bra
Fleece dread dolman, tartan blanket skirt
Tartan dread top, felted knit shorts
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Photography by Thomas McCarty

Rising designer trio Moses Gauntlett Cheng first discovered each other’s collective brilliance while working as interns on Eckhaus Latta’s AW ’14 collection. The NYC-based brand is composed of David Moses, Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng—three up-and-coming visionaries who’re slowly making a splash on fashion’s more subversive, underground circuit.

They debuted their AW ’15 collection in a parking garage, where models filed out of an all-black RV onto a persian runner rug acting as the production’s runway. As Fatima’s “Ridin Round (Sky High)” blared, models wore pieces that explored “a desire for infantile comfort and domestic escapism”—an “adult baby” look seen through MGC’s slightly unsettling lens: Loose loungey knits, an updated moss-colored robe and subtle embroidery that spelled out the melancholic statements, “I’m so tired,” and, “I’m so sorry.”

We caught up MGC to to discuss creating their RV fashion show, cutting holes in Moses’ Louis Vuitton bag and scouting models on Facebook.

On their brand aesthetic:

Esther Gauntlett: “Everything comes from our domestic fantasies that are sort of disturbed. Like something is a bit wrong in your home life or you’re just a bit rushed about the way you’re going and you forgot to take something off or put something extra on.”

David Moses: “People tell me all the time that I always look comfortable and I don’t think fashion needs to be uncomfortable. I want to make clothes that people want to wear and that people can be comfortable in—things they’re happy to wear and not something they have to put on to fit into this societal norm.”

On their AW ’15 runway show:

DM: “We had our models inside Jenny’s boyfriend’s RV and drove it into a parking garage, where the models walked out of the RV and onto a runway.”

EG: “Someone described our show in a really perfect way, saying ‘it looked like there was a party going on inside the RV and the models were just coming out to go to the bathroom.’”

On their AW ’15 collection:

EG: “We wanted to look back on things that we loved as kids—the things you reach for when you’re stressed, exhausted or hung-over. I personally have a pillow with my name embroidered on it—I’ve slept on it everyday since I was born and it’s my security blanket. We wanted to explore this idea through embroidery or that favorite sweater you have that you washed and dried to be too small, but you’re still wearing it—old things that have extreme emotional significance.

I went back to Australia this December and had a totally reckless month of being hung-over on my parents’ couch, so we wanted to capture this vibe of going home and embracing comfort a little bit too much—reverting to this ‘adult baby’ stage and being looked after in a way that you’re kind of in love with and also embarrassed by.”

On working together:

DM: “No piece gets completed without each of our approval—it’s very collaborative.”

EG: “When David doesn’t eat for a long time, he’ll have extreme meltdowns over something small like a Dolman sleeve, but that’s as far as our fighting goes. It’s more hilarious than damaging. We deal with a lot of our frustrations by pretending to constantly fire each other.”

DM: “There’s this running joke that Jenny is just our intern and that we fire her a lot.”

On Patric DiCaprio’s lookbook styling:

DM: “We styled our first season’s lookbook and I don’t think it was nearly as strong as what happened this season because of Patric. From the nail clipper belly chain to the nail clipper earrings and the tiny bags, we couldn’t have done it without him.”

EG: “A lot of that was going to back this teenage trashy vibe that we all experienced. When I was in Australia growing up, I used to wear a denim mini skirt with thigh high Ugg boots, as all Australians do.”

On embroidery in their AW ’15 collection:

EG: “Our heating was broken in the studio, so it was really hot all through winter. David had tested out his new embroidery machine by writing, ‘I’m so tired, and, ‘I’m so sorry,’ on his Louis Vuitton bag. Then, one time he was so hot and I was only wearing a jumper, so we cut a hole in the bag and I put it on as a top. We were looking at it in the mirror and were like, ‘We have to put these things on actual clothes.’

DM: “I feel like any fashion designer, especially us, complains about how tired they are during preparation for show.”

EG: “Also, that kind of vibe of being hung-over or apologizing to your parents for your behavior, or just being stressed and exhausted, which we all were deeply feeling during this collection.”

DM: “We did all-nighters every night for like 10 days straight and finished the clothes about 20 minutes before the show. Jenny was knitting things and running to the Laundromat the day of. So, the embroidery was just a response to our extreme exhaustion.”

On casting models:

DM: “Usually before a show, I’ll just go through my Facebook friends because 90 percent of them are people I don’t know. It’s always fun to make a new connection with someone that I’ve never met before. New York City is a breeding ground for incredibly beautiful, interesting people. We’re not interested in making clothes for stick-thin models—that’s not our aesthetic. We like making clothes for people who have shapes.”

EG: “David has the body of a stick thin model, so we accidentally used him in our first season as a fit model. But even when we go into buying meetings now, people look at our clothes and say, ‘These look larger than sample size.’ It’s because we fit on our friends, who’re all different shapes.”

On NYC’s fashion community:

EG: “I was surprised at how beautiful and supportive the community is here. We showed last season with a friend of ours name Patric Dicaprio, who does a label called, ‘Vaquera,’ as well. Everyone I’ve met that works in fashion helps each other—Vejas is a dear friend of ours. He came to our studio the night before our most recent show and was using our machine to finish our sewing. He even helped backstage at our show.”

DM: “Vejas helped us with our first collection, so we offered to help with his latest collection. When jenny and I showed up, we got put into the position of being hair and makeup people.”

 

READ More: “NYFW AW ’15: Rising Designer Vejas is New York’s Secret Treasure”