Photography: Voda Gong
Even though A Détacher designer, Mona Kowalska, describes her brand as “clothes you can sleep in,” they never lack edge. This season saw Kowalska presenting plaids and patent leather between flowy florals and tailored tweed, always effortless even when they required more structure than her usual easy-wear. Vintage photos of a Victorian chateau birthed the collection, creating a sweet yet sophisticated range of boyfriend blazers, printed trousers and oversized sweaters emblazoned with the iconic imagery. Delicate lace pieces gave the collection a subtle sexiness that, along with the brand’s signature ease, pushed A Détacher beyond just a hippie girl label. With her FW ’17 collection, Kowalska stressed the brand’s ability to be more than just simple ready-to-wear that’s both soft and serene, proving A Détacher is never without imagination. Although the collection maintained its saccharine moments, the designer also delivered an intellectual artistry and unattainable cool.
View photos from the A Détacher FW ’17 presentation, above, and read the BULLETT interview Kowalska, below.
Let’s talk about the general idea behind the collection. What was your main inspiration?
M: I started really with photographs of the chateaus, then we blew them up and they gave such a feeling that we did the prints to go along with those. They gave everything this sort of ‘70s meets Victorian vibe.
How would you describe A Détacher?
M: I like to do things that are easy to wear, but I also like to revisit things that have already been made. This season is easy, it’s a daytime collection. I like clothes you can sleep in—you can take a little nap in my designs, but you can also work and add this breath to the collection.
How does this collection compare to previous seasons?
M: I think they all build on each other—each season is almost like a growth, where you just go deeper into a subject every time.
Who is the A Détacher man or woman this season?
M: There’s a lot of stuff in this collection that is very unisex, which I like. I think that was really a subconscious choice because I would like the collections to become more and more post this very strict gender—but still in a very credible way, not a theatrical one.
What do you think your role is as a fashion designer?
M: In this climate, it sometimes feels very superficial to be doing something like this. It’s hard to be a fashion designer in such a political time like this—it’s hard to think about clothes when there’s such bigger things happening.