PFW AW ’15: Iris Van Herpen, Mesmerizing and Otherworldly

The foundational ideas of Iris Van Herpen’s collections are always hyper-conceptual. For AW ‘15, the collection was christened, “Hacking Infinity,” and centered on “terraforming,” or the creation of an Earth-like environment on another planet. This translated more tangibly into hand-plisséed fanned … Continued

PFW AW ’15: Lemaire, Studied and Sophisticated

Lemaire showed at the same library as the last season: The Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BnF), which was a fitting setting for Lemaire’s aesthetic. The solemn chic of his attire has something intellectual about it—studied, subtle and sophisticated. Access to … Continued

PFW AW ’15: Nipples Ablaze at Jacquemus

Simon Porte Jacquemus has been shortlisted for the LVMH prize both this year and last. The young French designer worked at Comme des Garcons before setting up his own label, which has only been growing in acclaim. Yet what is … Continued

PFW: Jacquemus Brings a New Kind of Coastal Allure

Waves were the acoustic background as people filed into Cité de la Mode for the Jacquemus show. A flotsam and jetsam of buoys and overturned white parasols were sprawled around like some post-Labor Day seashore apocalypse. The runway was primed for … Continued

Polyamory in Paris: Pinar&Viola’s Valley Foretell

“With fashion, everything can be accepted,” declared Pinar Demirdag, half of the creative duo Pinar & Viola. The two graphic designers—respectively Turkish-born and Dutch-born—launched their new online platform, Valley Foretell (“to reveal future desires”) this weekend in Paris. And more specifically: their latest polyamorous-themed image collection. To celebrate, they hosted not just any old party. It was a polyamorous wedding party, or a festivity of “l’amour au pluriel.” … Continued

Paris Men’s: Juun.J Cleans Up Nice

Juun.J’s S/S ’15 runway at the Palais de Tokyo started off very cleanly: white on white on white. The first look was a varsity-style deep-V neck paired with past-the-knee wide-leg shorts. The loose looks that followed called to mind nursing scrubs … Continued

Paris Men’s: Walter Van Beirendonck Doesn’t Give AF

Walter Van Beirendonck’s S/S 2015 collection, entitled WHAMBAM!, showcased the Belgian designer’s anticipated mix of cartoonish and creative. As the plinky opening notes of “Tumbling Lights” by The Acid morphed into to a more pounding beat, the Van Beirendonck boys … Continued

A.P.C. Brings Their Brand of Street Chic to Paris

“In the world of the fashion industry, I feel like a lumberjack or something,” Jean Touitou said of his modest Fall/Winter presentation amidst elaborate Paris Fashion Week shows. But as he reminded the audience gathered in his 6th arrondissement headquarters, … Continued