Photography: Claire Delannoy
While everyone else has busy obsessing over Balenciaga and Chanel, I’m giving my S/S ’18 award to Y/Project. For their PFW presentation, the brand sent one killer look after another down the runway. Sheer bodysuits, giant jackets, their signature weird jeans—literally every single piece of the collection was almost perfect. And none of it felt repetitive or boring. Beginning with some sweet and preppy sweater/skirt combos, before moving into their signature baggy-as-fuck streetwear and closing out with a series of elegant (not to mention almost totally sheer) ruffle-y dresses, the range covered all aspects of ready-to-wear without ever feeling too stuck in any one season. Part Issey Miyake, part Jacquemus with a little bit of Acne Studios, Balenciaga and Matthew Adams Dolan, the Y/Project S/S ’18 collection took elements from all of our favorite designers, but somehow, still felt completely Glenn Martens. And that’s the mark of all the best designers: being able to be on trend without feeling trendy, and never losing your sense of self.
So, yeah, sure, Helmut Lang was really fucking good. And so were NAMILIA, AREA, Kenzo and Thom Browne (actually, Thom was like, really, really good). But our vote goes to Y/Project (with extra points because there was no yellow, Martens didn’t design one bathing suit, and I didn’t have to witness anything one-shoulder—if only NYFW took a cue). But you don’t have to take my word for it—view the (pretty close to) perfection, above.