Few are fond of early rising on Sunday, perhaps none more so than the partying fashion tribes. As if acknowledging this, Kenzo’s S/S ’15 collection, shown at 10am on Sunday at a concrete skate park, had a seriously “sleepwear” vibe. Some of the looks just seemed like comfortable loungewear, especially the long ‘n loose jumpsuits (in black, white, and newborn-baby blue), as well as the long white mesh skirt and tank pairings, and even a lovely blue kimono-style robe. Other outfits, however, seemed quite literally like jammies on the go, conjuring an I-just-fell-out-of-bed-in-my-man’s-pajamas look, by way of long pinstriped nightshirts and wide-leg trousers.
Otherwise, round grommets were a unifying detail through, and white and navy were the predominant color palette. There were pastel vaguely-camo–printed outerwear pieces and separates, and several zippered tunic jackets in oversized proportions. Perforated and graphic laser-cut patterns were the most fun play on shapes and textures, like white trousers punched out with smileys; a racer-front long white dress mixing solid and sheer squares, diamonds, and lines; or a blue V-neck dress that suddenly went translucent and patterned mid-thigh. The models carried Kenzo-branded bags, adding to the graphic mix. The hair, combed over to the left side, was a bit puzzling, as were some of the pointed-toe mules, a style of footwear that one might have hoped would remain outdated.