There were so many great show yesterday: Alexandre Herchcovitch showed Boy George inspired plaids; new favorites Ostwald Helgason made more for flirty skirts for the young adventuress; Prabal Gurung hit all the trending tags (sporty, goth, printed); Threeasfour were, as usual, stunningly alien to the pack; and VPL’s thong headdresses were rad. But it was these three—Alexander Wang, MM6, and Altuzarra—that stood out as the most covetable, virtuosic, and proselytistic of Day 3 of this NYFW.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela
The glowing faces at MM6 yesterday told us something we already sensed in the collection— these are everywoman clothes. Or, at least, every New York woman clothes. The lower Margiela line has confirmed that it will show on the NYFW schedule for the foreseeable future, and we’re happy to hear it. The long-skirted looks and monotonal ensembles were lovely, but it was the streetwear suiting pieces that made us feel most at home. And the shoes—skater girl or ‘les topless’ sandals, we’ll take both.
Joseph Altuzarra is known for his exceptional tailoring but it was the pyjama pant and draped curtain clothes that incited the most desire in us. Maybe that was because they recalled Balenciaga’s ever-pertinent Fall 2007 cultural collage collection. Altuzarra’s over-the-knee leather boots—loopy gladiators and tall leather shafts—were also strong but, again, Balenciaga.
Wang’s clever cutouts made it so his black and white palette integrated one more tone, the best leather of all, skin. This spring, Wang did what he does which is adapt favored forms (oxfords, windbreakers, cable knits, and LBDs) with on-trend shapes (box tops, knee-length skirts) and subtle references (50 Shades of light bondage, Rudi Gernreich, Blow Up Verushka, and DIS-echoing double bagging) and then he rolling-pins it all down to something flat, a unified take on exactly what we want to wear right now.