Photography: Paola Vivas
This season, we’ve seen tons of futuristic vibes all over the runways, from Collina Strada’s Stephen Hawking-inspired collection, to the future feminist warriors at KAIMIN and NAMILIA. In Milan, Vivetta and MSGM took a different approach, referencing the past through stylistic moments and reinterpreting them for the present.
At Vivetta, the 1960s reigned supreme, with delicate designs in sweet colors, perfect for a Valley of the Dolls redux. Intricate lace and mismatched prints were the epitome of ’60s elegance, as designer Vivi Ponti stuck with the brand’s signature mix of girly cool. There’s a fine line between whimsy and junior—one which Ponti never crosses, as Vivetta remains at the same time, modern and innocent.
But aside from her ability to seamlessly craft both saccharine and feminine designs, Ponti’s real talent lies in Vivetta’s range. The brand never feels one-note, with each season building upon the last to deliver something sweeter, cooler—better. Only in the Vivetta world can ’60s influence feel completely new, because no matter the style or reference, Ponti’s stamp is always there—her voice always the loudest and most relevant.
At MSGM, the retro vibe was definitely present, though not as clearly. There’s something about black-and-white checkerboard that will always read ’90s Doom Generation to me. So this collection, through all of its references, felt like an Araki cinematic moment. Designer Massimo Giorgetti continued his expert mix of prints to create a kaleidoscope of color and shape. Star-covered boots, checkered bags, a giant yellow jacket—every outfit was loud, but each design was strong enough to stand on its own, the MSGM girl always the coolest in the room.
As a whole, the MSGM AW ’17 collection was good—almost every piece was both wearable and exciting. But as an extension of previous collections, this season was Giorgetti’s best, innovative and self-confident.
With Fashion Month coming to a close, it’s hard for everything not to start blurring together—after going to countless presentations and reviewing even more, it’s a feat that I remember anything. But even through the Fashion Month haze, Vivetta and MSGM AW ’17 are two collections I won’t forget. Both were different in that they referenced the past, rather than a dystopian present or post-apocalyptic future. Both were also unabashedly optimistic, and perhaps more importantly, completely removed from the current political situation. Fashion is supposed to be a fantasy, an escape from the mundane nature of the real world. With all the anger, turmoil and social unrest happening in our everyday lives, it was more than refreshing to get away for a few minutes—it was necessary. Like Valley of the Dolls and Doom Generation, Vivetta and MSGM AW ’17 took us away from reality and into a dream—even if just for a moment.