This year’s Stockholm fashion week not only welcomed a handful of new designers, but an entirely new format. Perhaps that can account for the palpable feeling of positive vibes and happiness both within the shows and on the streets (refreshing for a place that’s dark for essentially half the year). This season, the luxurious Grand Hotel became the central base for Stockholm Fashion Week (Obama stayed there once) after being held at the Berns hotel for ten years. It was a must-needed step towards energy and brightness. Though Stockholm is known for it’s Scandinavian minimalism – and it certainly showed – designers embraced color and bold silhouettes in unexpected ways. Here are a few of the highlights.
The week opened up with lots of color and a heavy dose of 80’s. Oversized silhouettes and crazy patterns dominated Whyred’s collection, which screamed pop, with its layering of material mixes and unusual cuts. It comes as no surprise that Whyred finds their inspiration in their love for music and art.
Inspired by Nina Simone’s song ”Feeling good”, Rodebjer created relaxing and powerful garments which, as per usual, were topped with her signature layers. Energetic, geographic prints and slightly oversized suits were a standout and the hoodie was a nice detail underneath all those voluminous coats and beautiful patterns. But it goes without saying, you can never go wrong with a hoodie.
HOUSE OF DAGMAR
Dagmar served us classic Scandinavian minimalism with a tonality of bright colors and floating materials. Still devoted to their gorgeous knits, they showcased knit herringbone, unexpectedly mashed up with heavy yellow and blue accents. The key silhouette was a blanket shape, wrapped around the body. The collection was inspired by female solidarity and strength – the notion of women coming together in protest to the political changes happening. I was a truly strong show with an important message and stunning, wearable minimalistic pieces.
Named ”Designer of the year” in 2016 by Elle, Ida is well-known from her magical, fairy tale-like creations. This time around, however, she took a step away from Cindarella, creating an aesthetic that was maturely romantic. Soft pastels and floral prints were paired with her classic material choices – metallic lace, tulle and chiffon. Dubbed ”Secret Garden,” the collection was inspired by the thought of finding that secret place – physically or in the imagination – where you can find calm and happiness.
The atmosphere was very harmonic and intimate, with breezy tunes and the slow-walking models. She seems to be emerging as a sort of Swedish Valentino. There is, however, one troubling question – are we seriously still seeing shows consisting of entirely white models?
For the first time, Björn Borg showed a limited, signature collection at the Royal Tennis Hall in Stockholm to celebrate sports legend Björn Borg. Dubbed ”VERSUS Borg,” it was a retro-inspired sportswear collection that also served as a companion piece to the forthcoming film BORG, which depicts the life of the tennis pro. Björn Borg showed attitude and the sportswear collection was definitely made wearable with it’s interesting yet simple design. A welcome, positive addition to an overall positive week. Who knew Swedes could be so upbeat?