Fashion Month is exhausting. The cycle for everyone is always the same: spend months dreading it, act bitchy during it, then sleep for days after. You see so many shows that everything blurs together, and in the end, you don’t remember one person you met or piece you liked. And then you do it again the next year.
This NYFW was a just a seven day-hangover (even though there were some highlights), and I was exhausted heading into London. I know Milan and Paris are supposed to be the real showstoppers, but so far, my scrolls through Vogue Runway’s PFW moments have been exceedingly boring. Dior, YSL, Dries Van Noten—they’re all chalk-full of the same stand-out (and sit the fuck down please) trends we saw in New York already. That’s why, every year, London is so refreshing—it’s like all of the designers get together and decide they’re going to ignore trends and forget seasonal dressing. Three of the best presentations this season? I’ll give you a hint—they didn’t show any all yellow looks or bathing suits and that’s why we vote for Clio Peppiatt, Roberta Einer and Fyodor Golan.
For their S/S ’18 presentation, designers Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman went all out with statement pieces. From giant ceramic and plastic-looking earrings, to supersize sunglasses, everything about the collection was over-the-top yet understated. As opposed to last season, where the duo did maximalism in all its forms (colors, fabrics, prints and Post-Its), this year, the brand presented a simple yet sophisticated collection that was fun and still maintained Fyodor Golan’s signature kitschiness.
At Clio Peppiatt, the designer channeled witchy vibes and tarot card readings. The result was an elegant dinner party setting with ethereal and darkly romantic pieces. Joining silks, chiffons, structured suits and flowy dresses, Peppiatt delivered a beautifully feminine range that also felt seriously empowered. Plus, those tarot card clutches are going to be the it-bag of the season.
For her collection, Roberta Einer mixed prints, fabrics and sequins, creating a line of sweet patchwork dresses emblazoned with cynical messages. Tops reading “Never Had A Dream Come True” and Vans with “Fake News” marked in Sharpie gave the girly clothes a cheekiness that made sure they never felt too Spring.
With all three collections, the designers presented edgy but elegant pieces made for opinionated women. Though their ‘girls’ are all very different, it’s clear they do have one thing in common, and that’s a taste for speaking up—whether it’s with giant earrings or tarot card clutches, or even if it’s more explicit.
View photos from the Fyodor Golan, Clio Peppiatt and Roberta Einer S/S ’18 presentations, above.