Photography: David Hans Cooke
Eckhaus Latta gets a lot of cred. And I have to be honest—for the last few years, I haven’t been so sure they’re completely deserving of it. I mean, I get their shtick—minimal art house-style fashion with an inclusive edge. But I’ve never been that impressed—until this season. I know the fashion world has jumped on the diversity train and tries to pretend that Balenciaga doesn’t still have all white runways. But I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: it feels really fucking forced. And that’s what’s so refreshing about Eckhaus Latta—their casting is spectacular, and not just because it includes women, men, non-binary folx, people of color, women over 40, and a variety of sizes. It’s amazing because it doesn’t feel like casting—these are the wide range of people who actually wear their clothes.
And speaking of clothes—the Spring collection actually felt like fashion. A lot of designers who focus on minimalism and innovation in the way that Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta do, end up bordering on student work. But the Eckhaus Latta S/S ’18 collection incorporated movement, texture and inventive silhouettes that felt modern, effortless and exciting. A lot of times, when you think of avant-garde, you think of exaggerated shapes that look weird and feel couture. In their own way, Eckhaus Latta is able to produce avant-garde fashion that’s also subtle and understated. Whereas most designers are interested in making loud, over-the-top statements, Eckhaus Latta is comfortable just being themselves. And in a world of hype-machine fashion and curated Instagram bios, that’s actually radical.
View photos from the Eckhaus Latta S/S ’18 presentation, above.