Few contemporary designers successfully create an impact from layering subtleties like J.W. Anderson. His aesthetic has always wrestled with gaudiness, compartmentalizing an array of disparate ideas, so they’re somehow palatable and harmonious. The Northern Irish tastemaker stayed true to his legacy for Pre-Fall 2016, unveiling a lookbook that negates any fear pervading fashion today by bravely ignoring the popular demand for economically “safe” collections.
He’s a self-proclaimed “agitator,” which rings loudly throughout the 19-look display. Anderson’s silhouettes are bulbous, this season favoring a Victorian-style Leg of Mutton sleeve that’s offset with modern, sci-fi undercurrents. Intricacies are intensified: gold and silver zippers embellish a pair of genie-inspired trousers, oversized pockets become the focus for a pair of updated khakis and tiny, delicate bows are styled to juxtapose hard-edged masculine staples, like a black leather jacket and boyfriend sweater.
Anderson effortlessly designs outside trends, though Pre-Fall’s new Pierce bag plays off a recurring motif that several artists and designers have been exploring lately. The streamlined purse elevates a look first introduced by New York-based pioneer Victor Barragan of YTINIFNINFINITY, framing the industrial piercing with a discerning elegance that only a mastermind like Anderson could properly execute. See the full lookbook, above.