As SPFW came to a close, Brazilian fashionistas start preparing for Fashion Rio, which will kick off next week on November 7th at Pier Mauá. Over the past few days, the word used most by designers and local journalists to describe this season was “sinteses”: concise collections, fewer looks, fewer scenaries. The restraint was due to a change in the local fashion calendar designed to give designers more time from runway to retail. After this transitional fashion week, SPFW will return full pace in March 2013. What’s trending this SPFW: red and nudes, leather and transparencies, oversized flowers and arabesque prints.
The only full menswear show presented this season, João Pimenta created a Brazilian dandy style for his catwalk. Sharp tailoring and cropped high waisted pants were done in earthy tones, mustard, and all black leather.
The iconic Brazilian brand created by Tufi Duek 30 years ago sets the stage at SPFW. This season, new lead designer Marta Ciribelli presented her second collection for the company. Reafirming the search for a strong luxurious Brazilian identity, the collection presented unexpected colors for winter including vibrant green – like that of the Brazilian flag – and red, leveled with softer tones of soft pink, beige, khaki, and grey. The prints, oversized leaves and florals, were inspired by the tropical forest.
The father of up and coming designer Pedro Lourenço has traditionally been one of the highlights of SPFW. Closing the season with an Andalusian bullfighting inspired show, the collection presented meticulous work with arabesques of laser cut leather, tulle, gabardine, and zibeline.
Herchcovitch is a long time favorite in Brazil and he didn’t disappoint with his Autumn/Winter collection. The look was fresh and soft, with dresses mimicking flowers and natural decomposition. 1940s and 50s silhouettes gained new flare with high tech materials and new shapes.
Campos is one of the big promises of Brazilian fashion. For his second show at SPFW, the 24-year-old designer proved once again to be an ascendant star with an impeccable show. Minimal and perfectionist, the designer mixed soft tones with metallics, played with new materials, and proposed an update of urban-sexy-chic.