New York Fashion Week is over, folks. It’s fitting we close with two of the oldest functioning American houses, Ralph Lauren—still, forty-plus years later, designed by Ralph Lauren—and Calvin Klein—founded in 1968 and steadily skippered by Francisco Costa since 2003. Because while we New Yorkers are retiring, it’s back to school, London. The kids are taking over as their five-day week of exuberant, student-led fashion (and eternal youth, Vivienne Westwood <3) starts today.
Ralph Lauren’s collection was inspired by the exotic travel destinations, and the women that inhabit them, of his imagination. The fantasy culture of this Spring 2013 was Spanish or Latin American or some hybrid place where women get to be the matadors in heels and the belles dancing on the sidelines. The feminine-masculine and feminine-feminine looks recalled Rita Hayworth in the 1946 film Gilda, the femme fatale in Buenos Aires who eventually hangs up her traje de luces, puts on a dress, and promises to wed Johnny Farrell, or so the narrator Johnny Farrell tells us.
Ralph is a pro, and he delivered 61 total looks with saleable pieces throughout. Our favorite look may have been number 62, the white lounge pant and black crewneck and sneaker ensemble that the 72-year-old designer emerged in. Ralph looked real comfortable up there.
Calvin Klein Collection
This is the inspiration equation: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy + Carsten Nicolai + cars. Francisco Costa showed luxurious cream pantsuits and hourglass dresses made for the woman without an hourglass bod. Wired busts and hips made for intellectual curvatures, but you wouldn’t want actual flesh pressed into these shapes. The conic bustiers were Azealia-rips-Madonna for some event where booty shorts aren’t appropriate. As always, with Calvin Klein, god is in the details.