Fashion

Pussy Galore at NAMILIA S/S ’18

Fashion

Pussy Galore at NAMILIA S/S ’18

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Photography/GIFs: Kathryn Chadason

Vagina’s all the rage this season—from feminism’s infiltration of the fashion industry, to NAMILILA S/S ’18. And while a lot of the political statements and feminist undertones (or overtones, in the case of Dior) feel forced or unoriginal, designers Nan Li and Emilia Pfohl always feel authentic and not so obvious—even when they have pant legs made out of labia lips.



For their Spring ’18 collection, Li and Pfohl channeled the emotional power of pussy. Inspired by The Indiscreet Jewels, Denis Diderot’s 1748 novel in which Louis VI plays the sultan of Mangogul of the Congo, and his prized possession is a ring that makes female genitals talk, the designers did just that, giving the often taboo topic not just a platform, but an entire collection. Through vagina prints and sleeves, exaggerated tits and heavy fabrics, NAMILIA S/S ’18 was like a baroque Victorian porno that actually had class.

And here’s the thing—while I may not actually wear a literal pussybow blouse, I love the idea. We’ve seen Raf Simons send dicks down the runway, and watched as designers work to strategically (and simultaneously) show off the female figure, while also hiding its naughty bits. As dudes (and designers) endlessly ogle boobs and butts, the vag is a no-go area that’s never talked about, let alone highlighted. So, having a collection not just inspired by pussy, but also dedicated to it—that’s radical, and not just because people aren’t used to seeing it. You see, the fashion industry is basically built upon the idea of making women feel inferior (duh, so they’ll buy stuff that makes them feel better). And until the last few years, as female photographers, editors, designers and stylists have started to get the jobs they’ve always deserved—the male gaze (and its overbearing opinion) have been currency. That means patriarchy, sexualization, objectification and blah blah blah. But it also means women haven’t been celebrated. Instead, they’ve been sold, and sold to. So, a collection that empowers women by literally wearing their pussies on a sleeve? We’re all about it.



Let’s also not forget Trump is in office (like we could for even a second). But that means politics have moved from being a walk-on role during runway season, to a series regular. Even brands like Urban Outfitters and Forever 21 are using graphic tees to make a statement. That’s cool and all, but like I said before—it leads to a lot of inauthentic, well, shit. Not to mention political over-saturation. With their Spring collection, NAMILIA was able to showcase a subversive message without feeling contrived—but almost more importantly, without losing the fantasy. Fashion used to be a place women would go to escape. Whether it was the real world, their boring lives or whatever, dressing up meant zoning out or pretending to be someone else for a second—that goes away when reality creeps in. But that being said, designers walk a fine line: if you don’t acknowledge what’s going on in the world, you’re shallow; if you do, you’re being forced. And when things get as crazy as they are right now, and everyday feels like a battle, there’s really no way to keep politics out of our pants. That’s why the NAMILIA collection was so amazing—well, besides the fact that it was covered in vag. Using lush fabrics and baroque embellishments, the brand presented a detailed couture collection that actually felt like real fashion—and proved that pussy grabs back.

View the NAMILIA S/S ’18 collection, above.