December 10, 2012

The Pre-Fall shows will carry us through the holidays and into the New Year, leaving but a brief moment of respite before the season—that’s Fall—launches in February. Today’s roundup looks at some of the best from New York: Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and Reed Krakoff [edit out a joke about the KKK here]. Fashion Weeks, in theory, are for the buyers. While the main events of Spring and Fall have become media spectacles, more about the image of the brand and of those attending, Pre-Fall, in its modest commerciality, is still really a buyer’s market. Where do we see the KKK collections ending up? Chez les three Bs, as per Blair Waldorf, “Barney’s, Bergdorf, and the lesser but still relevant Bloomingdale’s.” And on with the clothes and the three Cs (cloth, color, cut)…

Calvin Klein
Cloth: Vinyl, alpaca, cashmere, calf hair, shaved shearling.
Color: Black, white, camel, caramel, teddy bear  brown, legitimate beige, red.
Cut: Waist belted, midi and maxi, tunics, turtlenecks, full sleeves, narrow shoulders, broad lapels, elongated.

Reed Krakoff 
Cloth: Leather, pony hair, painted python, cashmere, shearling, jersey, rubber-dipped lace.
Color: Black, white, camel, heather gray, asphalt, goldenrod.
Cut: Menswear, on the straight and narrow, skirts above the knee, pants hemmed extra long, Mort turtlenecks, drop waists, emphasize shoulders.

Donna Karan
Cloth: Bonded jersey, bonded neoprene, cotton cupro stretch, chiffon, crushed wax velvet, leather.
Color: Black, black, white, black, slate, mulled wine, black.
Cut: Waist conscious, maxi or below the knee, fifties in the Raf Simons closes Jil Sander and opens Dior kinda way, 1980s Seven Easy Pieces simplicity.

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