Fashion

PFW AW ’15: A.P.C.’s Jean Touitou, ‘You Don’t Need to Show Your Boobs to Look Sexy’

Fashion

PFW AW ’15: A.P.C.’s Jean Touitou, ‘You Don’t Need to Show Your Boobs to Look Sexy’

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Jean Touitou presented his AW ‘15 collection with the typical mélange of insight—“fashion is a mix of seduction and intelligence”—and provocateur nonsense—“you only win at being edgy if you die”. Held in his airy sixth arrondissement headquarters, it’s funny to think that he started his label after an airline lost his suitcase and he decided he couldn’t find anything he liked.

Touitou recalled his roots throughout his talk. A.P.C., he reminded the audience—which included a discreetly seated Kanye West—stands for “Atelier Production Creation,” and represents a non-branded, smartly made wardrobe. He started out with menswear-only in the late ’80s and acquiesced to womenswear because so many girls would buy the guys’ offerings.

“I don’t want to sound pretentious or French,” he said, as if the two adjectives were synonymous, except that the comment belied his references to poet Paul Verlaine, writer and filmmaker Marguerite Duras, and the movie Le Doulos by Jean-Pierre Melville.

Presenting four looks at a time, he began by recalling his Trotskyite/Communist years. “How good looking the militants were,” he reminisced. “Because they were very passionate.” Uh, sure! His militants, however, didn’t look terribly radical in their headscarves, navy coats and crisp denim.

The series of looks that followed were prim and collegiate: Chic wool coats, structured blazers, skirts to the knee, slender dark denim, turtlenecks and button-downs. “You don’t need to show your boobs to look sexy,” Touitou declared. (‘Wait, what?’ Kanye thinks, startled. ‘You mean Kim’s been doing it all wrong?’) “Seduce with your personality,” Touitou advised, flinging words rarely uttered by a fashion designer.

Well, A.P.C. may not be va-va-voom, but luckily it has a sense of day-to-day reality. Explaining his choice of low-heeled footwear and sensible ballet flats, he said: “A.P.C. women walk and take the bus.” Let’s hear it for cosmopolitan mobility.