Paris Men’s Spring 2014 Fashion Week was plenty with everyman ready-to-wear, but amidst the same old were several challenging propositions. We break down these avant trends, so that you can decide if you’re ready for it.
Proposition 1: The Short Suit
June, August, September and October are the most popular months for weddings, but black tie in hot weather is not fun. An alternative: the short suit. Spring 2014 was rife with cropped two and three pieces. At Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo made pleated dress shorts in formal pinstripes and flat black. Kris Van Assche cut those at Dior Homme above the knee. His thigh revealing shorts were paired with, alternatively, long sleeved, short sleeved and sleeveless jackets. Damir Doma’s short suits were rugged, labor appropriate affairs. Finally, falling mid-calf, Yohji Yamamoto’s short suits were really more like capri suits, but we’ll group them in and call it a trend!
Proposition 2: Show Me Your D
The pants rose high this season. High and tight, like a good fade. At Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, they were cut for a skinhead, a cocky Cockney boy eager to show off his manhood; that is, his man camel toe (mammal toe?). At Carven, the pant leg got a little wider but the crotch stayed just as tight, while at Christophe Lemaire the leg came wider still and the waist was pleated, obscuring all privates and accentuating the waist. Damir Doma also reached for great heights with rib cage elevated waistlines.
Proposition 3: Build Ur Own Beefcake
Looking to bulk up for the summer without the heavy lifting? Laying like we saw at Givenchy, Haider Ackermann and Yohji Yamamoto will make you look the beefy part without the work. Shorts over pants? It’s hot, literally.
Proposition 4: My Boy-Toy Soldier
The lipsticked soldiers at Thom Browne’s show recalled Liliana Cavani’s controversial film The Night Porter, about a young concentration camp survivor’s sadomasochistic relationship with her former Nazy SS officer guard. You saw it too, right? Military fetishism swung its truncheon over at Balenciaga too, where Alexander Wang and his team specialized in coal, slate, and concrete outerwear–rain slickers, overcoats, and one outstanding plastic trench. While fascism reigned in old Spain and new America, Croatian Damir Doma’s military was of a more modest, Communist persuasion.
Proposition 5: Music to Our Ears
Reinventing himself time and again over the last many decades, David Bowie has offered himself up as an eternally recurring inspiration for fashion. This season, we’re spying Hunky Dory and the Thin White Duke era Bowies at Acne Studios. In more music news, Walter Van Bereindonck’s huge shouldered suits were of a David Byrne past, and Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane was all over the music map with Teddy Boy, skinhead and glam rock touches.
Proposition Infinity [~]: Internetgenic
Proposition Infinity, a.k.a. Prop Internetgenic, Prop Reblog Me, or Prop Online Shopping, is all about looks that look best on the internet. These styles are flashy and bold, timely not timeless. Sure to circulate widely as image, it’s always a pleasure seeing these bloggables in person. High among the liked: KENZO, Givenchy, Paul Smith and Raf Simons.