Like sands through the hourglass, so are the days of our lives. It’s a bit of a temporal mindfuck, viewing handfuls of new collections every day that project our near-future consumption, especially when those collections play time travel themselves, like these:
Jean Paul Gaultier
Speak, memory. Yesterday, Jean Paul Gaultier jubilantly nostalgized over 1980s pop stars, many of whom (Madonna, Annie Lennox, Grace Jones) he once-upon-a-time costumed most iconically himself. Flat top Grace Jones, pinstriped Annie Lennox, Boy Toy Madonna, Boy George, Sade, black “Thriller” Michael Jackson, Ziggy Stardust. The homages were so direct, the makeup so caked, it looked like a moving wax museum. Halloween inspiration?
Kimonos plus pantsuits plus fall-for-spring somberness (trick of the eye “tweeds”) plus purple lips plus side boob and bare solar plexus equals Haider Ackermann tapping into our deepest, darkest shallow desires.
Viktor & Rolf
Old Hollywood glamour in full color. Lauren Bacall and Joan Crawford and Veronica Lake. Bodies showing shape but little skin. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s mid-century retro—frothy, slippery, then sharp—was Lynchian, of the Freudian uncanny: uncomfortably familiar, magnetic, nostalgic, and immediate.