Backstage photos by David Vassalli
There’s always a discerning ease to Duckie Brown’s work, though designer duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silver consistently manifest effortlessness into a stunning lineup of whimsical, airy and quietly androgynous menswear. This delicacy lent itself wonderfully to a seasonally appropriate collection, acknowledging temperature shifts through an aesthetic lens that clearly reads, “spring/summer,” without submitting to the boring practicality of shorts and tees.
“Genderless” has become a fiery buzzword in fashion, and while Duckie Brown alluded to the cultural shift once more this season, it was executed in more subtle ways: sheer tops with sleeves that softly gathered like summer clouds and billowing trousers with gathered waists and satin ties (pants were fashioned with oversized 48-inch waists, all cinched to slim down to models’ 28-inch figures). Elements of traditional masculinity also seeped into the presentation, each given the Duckie Brown after-hours, garden party stamp: tailored jackets fit loosely, while high-waisted trousers flared nonchalantly near the hem.
The color story developed almost like a romantic film, beginning with approachable greys, whites and friendly drops of salmon before unveiling high-octane canary yellow and settling comfortably again with black. During the hustle of Fashion Week, Duckie Brown’s show never fails to provide a luscious, storybook escape—progressive, but never forced; easy, but never uneventful; dramatic, but never campy.