Who is this new Phillip Lim? After his leather-heavy, dark-and-printed fall collection, the designer–known for his mature, ultra-wearable looks–seems to be having a great deal of fun. Taking kites as his inspiration, models walked down the stage in light day-glo colors, with expertly cut sleeves and tailored pants lightly fluttering as they moved.
And when Bullett’s Creative Director James Orlando went backstage to take some retro-infused shots, it seemed like the lighthearted feelings were certainly contagious. Models were happy to mug and pose, even amidst stress of prepping for a major show, and the simple hair and shimmery makeup complemented the warm, end of summer day.
Though his hues were sweet and sherbet inspired, when placed on light fabrics, or from-the-future fabrics (as he did, later in the show), there was nothing overtly sugary about the collection. Like almost every collection this season, he certainly made ’90s references with smart blazers or longer tops, but his is the late-’90s, the era of the smart pants suit (where you packed your pumps in your purse) or loose-fitting trousers. And on this lovely September day, these print-free pieces rendered in such a light fabric would have been just the thing to welcome in fall. Alas, we’ll just have to make due waiting until next year.