The sun was setting on NYFW’s day three when Sandy Kim arrived at Milk Studios to hang out with the team behind Graeme Armour. It was the last show at the studio, but with the view of the sun setting over the East River from the penthouse, the day couldn’t have had a lovelier close, which, thank God, we needed. Models relaxed outside pre-show, wearing their hair sleeked back and extreme, like noir heroines less the smoky cat-eyes.
Despite the sunny surroundings, Armour’s darker collection is meant for a summer in somewhere like Tokyo (or maybe his native London). Architectural shoulders and tons of leather don’t exactly evoke images of beaches, but the light silk and see-through pants have a spring-like sense of movement. Heaps of negative space provided sensual glimpses of skin, and nearly every look had a slit or a gap—often by the hips (though a maxi dress teased calves). (The standout transparent pants are certainly something a young New Yorker would dig in a heartbeat.) Though primarily black, Armour brought in two really notable colors: a shiny gunmetal silver and an unexpected fuchsia, demonstrating that maybe he was feeling a little more summer-y than usual.
The show closed with a quilted, diagonal-zipped patent-pink jacket paired with an asymmetric dark skirt—a burst of color and a bit of darkness. A perfect finale for both the show, and the day itself.