Timo Weiland reveled in grunge this season for both his menswear and womenswear collections, allowing the signature ’90s aesthetic to translate through attitude, steering clear of all potential clichés. There were no rough edges or lazy silhouettes a la Kurt Cobain, but the clothing did quietly emit that same DGAF sensibility. Like retired rebels moving confidently into their first careers, the Weiland look was mature and relaxed, refined and nonchalant—an approachable style for someone whose wardrobe needs to accommodate their nine-to-five job, as well as their favorite cockroach-ridden punk bar.
The AW ’15 Weiland woman was a bad girl with a bank account—a chill look that the design team softened through effortless silk cottons, light floral prints and easy, Sunday hangover layering. Models stormed the runway in whimsical, chunky beanies, providing a more dramatic alternative to the typical cold weather staple. Sweaters were slouchy and oversized, cocktail dresses draped to look like they’d been haphazardly tied and tops given movement with campy fringe detailing. Post-rehab pop princess Kesha was also in attendance, seated front row in a pink power suit and bitchy, “don’t you dare talk to me,” shades that never once left her face.
The AW ’15 Weiland man was a seamless match for the woman, offering a similar balance of casual nonchalance with careful refinement. Classic staples like bomber jackets, sweatshirts and work shirts were at play, here, elevated through aggressive styling and contemporary fabrication. Classic overcoats with wide lapels were given a slight edge, paired with greaser plaids and relaxed trousers. Brimmed hats sprinkled in sophistication with a monotone color palette of blues, blacks and grays giving Weiland’s collection a safe, confident foundation.
(Photo by Dario Castillo)