For AW ‘15, designer duo Nicholas and Christopher Kunz kicked off the last season of fashion week beneath the Lincoln Center tents with a touch of terror. Titled, “The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari,” which is also the name of a 1920 horror film directed by Robert Wiene, Nicholas K’s collection drew inspiration from vintage, gothic cinema. Staying true to the brand aesthetic, many looks featured their standard draping and layering, this time allowing subtle details to the push the designers’ vision forward for fall.
Black fur lined the collars on knee-length knit cardigans and bomber jackets, while gold and silver pocket watches hung from the waist of pinstriped pants. Grey G-Shock S Series watches were strapped to backpack slings, as well as models’ wrists, while streaks of grey in models’ hair gave the entire show a ghostly feel.
Designers Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra played with the idea of reinventing their personal wardrobes when crafting their AW ’15 collection. The two have a pretty standard everyday uniform: Plaid flannels, braces and trousers, and very rarely do they wear anything different.
Hand-stitched plaid shirts in hues of midnight and plum paired with herringbone and crepe pants drove the inspiration home effectively, but they were also found layered under dresses, as well. Thick suspenders evocative of Carlton from “Fresh Prince of Bel-Air” held up mid-length skirts. They even created a dress with suspenders as straps that was arguably one of the coolest garments in the collection.
Toward the end, a forest print was introduced, which was very fitting because one, they are the lumberjacks of fashion and two, it tied in their new forthcoming fragrance, which will feature notes of angelica root, green grass and cedar wood. The forest motif appeared a cape top, skirt and a couple of calf-length dresses. Their signature frock, a folded front dress, also made its way into the lineup in a brown and red plaid print, and another in a plum color. We’re not sure if the move from Milk Studios to the Pavilion prompted the fashion bears to bring their A-game, but the clothes took us by surprise. They took their particular style, gave it a youthful and lux spin, and presented one of the strongest collections the two have shown over the last few seasons.
(Text by Nigel Clark)