Alexander Wang’s AW ’15 presentation inside Pier 39 was as big a spectacle as outside the venue, where swarms of people armed with cameras waited anxiously for attendees to arrive. Being that New York faced aggressively cold temperatures, unforgiving winds and sporadic snowfall throughout Saturday, the crowd’s dedication to capturing Wang’s front row as they spilled from their black cars was particularly impressive—maybe even sad. But once the moon fully rose and Kimye rushed in last-minute with North close by, Wang’s gothic, vampress production began to brew.
The ferocious sounds of French DJ Gesaffelstein filled Pier 39 with spotlights shining on its monochromatic walls like moonlight illuminating a city street. Wang’s atmosphere was clean and eerie, reveling in the designer’s signature minimalist aesthetic—a look always seemingly pulled from some Berliner cemented basement bar. Building upon Wang’s club-inspired repertoire, that same nightlife tenor was present this season, updated with an edge that screamed Marilyn Manson—ball busting and beautifully unforgiving.
Models’ hair was stringy and oily, greased to haphazardly fall in their faces like they’d all just performed an hour-long heavy metal set. The makeup was bloodless and ghostly, perfectly tailored to an underworld of cold-hearted witches. Although the collection at times looked uncomfortably close to Hedi Slimane’s work at Saint Laurent, Wang’s jet-black lineup still felt perfectly fresh.
Perfectly tailored jackets were finished with silver chainmail detailing, overcoats were crafted from lux-quilted silks and streamlined leather trousers were cut just above the ankle. Wang offered thoughtful, triple-breasted separates, building upon the officially passé double-breasted classic. Catering to every club kid looking to add a dose of drama to their look, Wang’s towering flatforms are a shoe in for next fall’s most wanted accessories.