Let’s be honest, Milan Fashion Week is all about Prada. Yesterday we got to see Prada.
I am pressed to write something about Prada’s latest collection because it always takes me weeks, sometimes months (by which time the clothes are actually in season), to understand Miuccia’s work; she’s that advanced. I can only now talk comfortably about Fall 2012 Prada and its contemporary retro futurism. But this… “Dream is forbidden, nostalgia is forbidden, to be too sweet is not good. Everything we used to feel historically, now you can’t enjoy. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream,” Miuccia commented of her Spring 2013 collection. What does it mean? The themes seemed obvious, geisha Japonisme, but that doesn’t tell you what she’s doing with those themes (she’s doing something, trust). Miuccia’s project is to challenge our aesthetic assumptions, sometimes that’s as simple as making ugly things beautiful and interesting, like her favorite color brown. The Warhol daisy fur coats could fall into that criteria, the beautiful ugly. The rest though—the stiff Duchesse satin dresses, the thong shoes with leather split socks and platforms—it was all so very pretty. That’s the critical assessment you’re going to get for now: it was very pretty.
Twinsets! On sister model. And mother/daughter cast models walking in tandem in matching mute toned geometric patterns. Armani has designed the costumes for the nihilistic Italian romance movie we desperately want to see.
MaxMara is designed by a team these days, and you can tell. We’re going to do safari for spring this year, guys. That means desert tones, animal prints, and headwraps. And, of course, a sprinkling of our traditional camel outerwear. This isn’t a bad thing. As clothes, the collection pieces were great. In a day with Prada though, it just shows that MaxMara is now nothing more than brand. (A good one.)