Acne Studios Creative Director Jonny Johansson claims to have reveled in banality for his A/W ’15 menswear collection, but the result was far from mundane. Generic, masculine motifs like English tailoring, donkey jackets and football served as the presentation’s backbone, while Acne’s eclectic edge fleshed out the concept to create an exciting marriage of tailoring and technical.
Johansson juxtaposed traditional fabrics like tweed and wool with modern, sportswear materials like nylon and fleece, building a bridge between bespoke and streetwear aesthetics. Boxy jackets were styled with knee-length shorts and leggings; sleeveless pullover sweaters were worn over shirts in dramatically oversized check prints; classic overcoats were tinkered with blown up collars and bold patches.
Models’ made-up faces, librarian specs and dangling earrings all seemed to combat Johansson’s early intentions to “explore what it means to feel masculine.” This subtle, genderless examination, which has been laced throughout menswear this season, made Acne’s entire presentation all the more complex. Scarves even read, “Gender equality,” and, “Women power,” which added to the density of Johansson’s vision.
Photos by Kusi Kubi.