J.W. Anderson’s Fall 2013 little pipe piper was smoking something wild because this is — genius. Will we see men in tube tops and culottes in a few months time? Doubtful. But Jonathan is showing showmanship and what a show it was! “This is my second real menswear collection,” said the designer, meaning his second, fully actualized offering, a vision. What’s ‘real’ for J.W. this Fall 2013 is a big, happy-gay brother to his Spring 2013 skatergirl. Their pants could have been cut from the same bolt and pattern, like a South Korean matchy matchy love statement to gender equality. The J.W. man is most masculine, of course, because of the frills. His body is beautiful in pinched crewneck sweaters and ruffled knickerbockers. Perhaps the pair of graphic sweaters, the white picket fence followed by a giant set of scissors, is the equation to the riddle of his runway. Simple semiotics: he is cutting up conventions. And don’t forget the doctor blue smock with white gloves; a healthy reminder to the bros get your prostates checked.
While J.W.’s silhouette pulled up to showcase broad shoulders and inner thighs, Shaun Samson (who’s clothes we editorialized yesterday) had his slope down like a football jersey sans pads. The Central Saint Martins taught Los Angeles native gave us American stadium wear crossed with a white collar, grunge, and SAMO-like knit scribblings. It’s American attitude exercised within the freedom of the London stage but, lucky for us, market’s global.
And just a quick announcement that E. Tautz, celebrated for his tartans and tailoring–executed impeccably again for Fall 2013–will be launching a women’s line so girls like Alexa Chung can stop custom ordering his dress shirts in micro sizes.