Photography: Luke Abby
There’s a clear sense of ease pervading NYFW this season, introducing styles that feel noticeably relaxed and approachable. Silhouettes are loosening up, sleeves are becoming elongated (shoutout to Vetements) and outerwear is growing in girth; designers are all tackling this appreciation for comfort by injecting their own personal aesthetic into the laissez faire look.
It’s refreshing, actually, to see everyday effortlessness becoming the goal for so many, but the challenge is how to take palpability and make it feel inspired—ensure that it’s still thoughtful. Öhlin/D successfully achieved nonchalance by reflecting on the childhood standard Little Bo Peep and Babyghost did so by looking to the ultimate cool, collected musician: Morrissey.
Photography: Luke Abby
For fall ’16, Öhlin/D President Anne Deane and Creative Director Jacob Park reflected on the childhood story-rhyme character, Little Bo Peep, considering the tale’s countryside setting, innocent undertones and feminine core as thematic starting points. These shepherdess allusions were felt throughout the collection, but especially in the show’s frilly chiffon babydoll dresses and sheer tops—the baby blues, delicate lilacs and soft pinks.
Rural romanticism was met with more hard-edged fabrics, like black leather, heavyweight wool and rigid denim, offering a balance to all this girlish flounce. Öhlin/D said they were aiming for subtle futurism with these juxtaposing elements—a move strengthened by the presentation’s Sam Stewart-designed, wooden centerpieces, which three models fit within. Thanks to styling by Jake Levy, the overall effect was effortless, aligning with NYFW’s lounging attitude this season.
Two rows of white floral arrangements formed funeral crosses, as gently flickering candles dotted Babyghost’s Milk Studios presentation. This set felt slightly somber, yet light and romantic—a complexity that translated into this season’s clothing, as well. Designers Joshua Hupper and Qiaoran Huang looked to The Smiths lead singer Morrissey for inspiration, which seeped into the collection’s masculine silhouettes and late ’80s finish.
Layers played a chief role in the show’s success, styling casual knitwear with more luxe, embellished pieces—that streetwear-meets-elegance Babyghost’s garnered praise for. Transparent tunics were decorated with sequins, which flickered like sunlight on waves; weighty houndstooth coats looked well-worn, like a cherished thrift store find; and dark flannel pieces reinforced the subtle subversion Babyghost introduced with its British rock inspiration—a thoughtful, well-rounded display.