The Kenzo show was held at the Cité de la Mode et du Design, a venue right on the Seine drenched with sparkling Sunday morning light. Inside, however, it was dark and wholly curtained off… Kenzo collabed with David Lynch for the maze-like set design (complete with a creepy sculpture centerpiece), as well as the minimalist soundtrack. Before the show began, vendors dressed in navy uniforms and jaunty little caps handed out cornets of caramel popcorn and takeaway coffee cups with KENZO emblazoned on the cardboard sleeves.
Once the runway kicked off, it was an eye-catching palette of brash lime green, a fiery orange hue reminiscent of vintage ‘70s interiors, shimmering threaded copper, and boldly layered prints. There were long sweater dresses in lean silhouettes, voluminous skirts, belted down quilted coats, sequin-embellished knits, enormous fox fur collars, and optical-illusion jackets in dizzying zigzags and waves. The set ended with Lou Reed’s “This Magic Moment,” and instead of doing a finale walk, the models filed out abruptly, without the usual circling of the runway. In fact, they’d shifted to the large atrium outside the runway and spread out, stock-still, in line formation. Thus editors, buyers, and the like could gawk at the garments and zoom in more attentively on the detailing, such as the patterns of tool shapes embroidered in metallics, and the accessories, such as leather and rubber ankle boots and bright oversized bags.