For Julia Seemann‘s AW ’17 collection, the designer channeled ’80s German goth rockers, Xmal Deutschland to create a line inspired by subculture and irreverent women. Titled Incubus, Succubus after the Xmal Desutschland 1982 track, and featuring prints in collaboration with Vaughan Oliver from the band’s neo-gothic imagery, as well as the biblical she-demon, Lilith, the collection fuses its dark influence with updated streetwear aesthetics to deliver a highly conceptual but equally wearable range of feminist ready-to-wear.
“The Julia Seemann man or woman is grounded and self-confident,” said the designer. “She/He knows what they want and lives fast, absorbing all the beautiful things they experience.”
Seemann’s mix of plaids, stripes and racing gear follows the simultaneously fluid and dissonant dark-wave of the post-punk girl band that inspired her. Part insolent, part cutting, the collection flips the negative female stereotype of figures like Lilith into a symbol for empowerment, her collection serving as both an ode to the goth movement and a reinterpretation of its powerful politics.
“I’m always trying to reflect what happens around me,” said Seemann, “and maybe, give a voice to a generation of individuals who still have their whole lives ahead of them.”
View the Julia Seemann AW ’17 collection, above.
Photography: Marlen Keller
Styling: Erik Raynal
Grooming: Anne Timper
Assistant: Ronald Rose
Models: Birthe & Elisabeth