The self-description of Issey Miyake’s A/W ’14 menswear collection referred to “the wonders of extreme nature,” but honestly it seemed like designer Yusuke Takahashi has been watching the opening credits of Dr. Who on loop. Sure, you could extract glaciers and volcanic magma and the Aurora Borealis references, but the electric color palette felt less nature and more raver: prismic blues and brilliant purples and hot pinks—and a lot of chilled shimmer.
The first looks resembled a freeze frame on a lightning bolt, seething with high voltage energy; some later head-to-toe apparel looked like circuitry alight. a fuse on the fritz. These were followed by arctic-hued coats in gleaming baby blue and acidic light green, fashioned in the kinds of materials that look like they would keep your food cold for a picnic. There were softer looks, too: double-faced knit ponchos, trench coats in more muted colors, double-breasted jackets. A lot of layering—shorts over leggings with socks—multiplied the sense of texture and color, which already was working triple-time thanks to a set of slim vertical mirrors propped against the back wall, reflecting and proliferating the outfits as the boys came down the runway. The finale looks were kaleidoscopic madness: a bright graphic fever dream, in which Lisa Frank was definitely the color palette muse. It was almost harsh to go back out afterwards into Paris’ rainy reality, with the neighboring Place des Vosges dulled and gray.