If you’re still wrapping your head around the babycore trend, which sees adult males rock Gymboree overalls and block color kids sweaters in big boy sizes, you better start playing catch-up because Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air just took the lewk to a radical new level with his mold-smashing collection, shown at the Paris men’s shows yesterday. Titled “GALVANIZE,” the show was all about “infantile glamour,” as Oliver said to Dazed. It featured men with cutesy HBA-and-bow barrettes, iced out pacifiers by Hollywood grillmaster Dolly Cohen, and not-so-innocently suggestive words like “toy” and “top,” spelled out in rhinestones on their foreheads—perfect for Pride.
Oliver has always been a trailblazer in the current move to gender-neutrality, and this show was no different. Maxi skirts with Angelina Jolie-style thigh splits and fitted off-shoulder tops featured alongside the label’s omnipresent oversized parkas and deconstructed shirting. Fittingly, unisex fashion designer Telfar Clemens of cult label Telfar also walked in the show, along with Kanye West collaborator Arca. Yeezy himself, who announced he was on board with babycore when he told T mag, “I want to dress like a child as much as possible,” will no doubt be down with the movement’s bold direction. However, replacing his signature Margiela masks with crystal pacifiers might make it harder to belt out Queen covers on stage (Maybe that’s a good thing).