Area (Photo courtesy BFA)
To the outside world, it may have felt like the only fashion presentation that took place during NYFW yesterday was Kanye West’s Yeezy Season 3 collection, but believe it or not, the industry kept happily pumping along regardless of the rapper’s Madison Square Garden spectacle. If you were one of the 20 million people who tuned into West’s 2-hour production on Livestream, we’ve selected a few standout collections you might’ve missed, from Area’s hyper-feminine lineup to A MOI’s geometric, Bauhaus-inspired installation. These are the highlights:
Photography: Charlotte Wales
Femininity is an ambiguous concept and something that can be interpreted in a number of ways. For NYC label Area, formed by designer duo Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk, the open-ended allusion was rich with possibilities—hardcore femme, campy drag or traditional frill—and ultimately informed the direction of their fall ’16 collection.
A collaboration with Swarovski, the luxe lineup and presentation immediately felt like a self-aware stab at subverting luxury, dramatizing certain archetypal details, from fox fur accents to tailored suiting, glamorous lamé gowns to crystal-dotted silk. This hyper-elegant reach toward a style that’s elite and touchable was laced with more exciting, rebellious undercurrents.
For KYE designer Kathleen Kye, campy, cartoonish zombies offer a metaphorical parallel to modern-day humans, who’re “lacking human fundamentals and only filled with desire and instincts.” This conversation, loaded with truth, was the catalyst for her fall ’16 collection, as she reflected on her own hectic life and sought to return to the Seoul-based brand’s time-honored basics.
Perhaps that’s why this season’s lineup didn’t feel like anything new, instead recalling core silhouettes and offering subtle updates to marketable favorites. Plush, oversized pullovers, plenty of logo-laden streetwear and a color palette of royal blue and electric lime pervaded KYE’s latest, all dotted with pastiched allusions of Iron Maiden’s zombie mascot, Eddie. KYE didn’t necessarily take any risks, but she proudly offered a “pledge of dedication.”
Photography: A MOI
The Bauhaus period was marked with strong, graphic typography and iconography—an era that designer Alejandra Alonso wove into the language of her fall ’16 A MOI collection. A focused color story—black, tan, navy and white—recalled this nostalgic time, decorated with bold cherry red accents and geometric details that offered a more concrete reference to the German movement.
Wide-legged, pleated trousers with sharp pleats were key offerings from A MOI, one high-waisted with silver grommets that strengthened the collection’s circle motif. This shape was strung throughout, appearing as dramatic, applied pockets, oversized buttons and knitwear cut-outs. Silhouettes were smart and streamlined, while the fabrics used echoed this confidence: heavyweight wools, modern furs and confrontational leathers, all infused with an overt sense of sophistication.