The London runways yesterday were a collage of vintage, sun-shining youth. Forget Photoshop, this is old school cut-and-paste, a tactile decoupage of three decades worth of teen girl magazines: 1970s flower power and disco, 1980s graffiti mixed media, and 90s Drew Barrymore with a daisy between her lips. It was all very… solid… foundational. No digital prints or futurisms. Pre-internet aesthetics for a consumer—these are young people clothes—whose primary contact with such aesthetics is likely YouTube and Tumblr, like those adorable Style Rookies.
Moschino Cheap and Chic
Moschino C&C was thoroughly 70s, without irony or even the subtlest anachronism. The hair, the shoes, the bags, aviator shades, tracksuits, peace signs—it all could have come straight from Rollergirl’s rack in the the costume closet of P.T. Anderson’s Boogie Nights.
Maarten van der Horst
Maarten van der Horst, one the young designers showcased by Fashion East this season, made rad matching separates in Sprouse evoking, commercial punk, magazine cut-out clashing prints.
House of Holland
Henry Holland’s 2013 brand of Grunge nostalgia was Pop-y and clean with plaids of optic proportions, love-me/not 3D flower appliqué, and clever winks like that Bitch t-shirt (I hate the world today / You’re so good to me / I know but I can’t change…).
The blue eye-shadowed Suzy of Wes Anderson’s Moonrise Kingdom gave Clements Ribeiro’s collection its momentum but it was the nostalgic jelly flats and the (more!) daisy appliqué that made our hearts ache like only River Phoenix once could.