Photography: Lane Lang
It’s no secret we love BARRAGÁN. But we also aren’t biased—if their S/S ’18 collection sucked, we definitely would have no problem saying so (I mean, did you see my #WANGOVER review?). The thing is (and lucky for us), it didn’t—the New York-via-Mexico brand slayed this season, just like they have since their debut. And that’s because designer Victor Barragán has an uncompromising vision, that hasn’t wavered through the seasons or after achieving success. Even as the brand continues to mature, the Mexican native remains steadfast in his dedication to disrupt the status quo.
For his latest collection, Barragán channeled tribal symbolism and a much more masculine edge than in any other season. Of course, there were still all the staples we’ve come to expect from the brand: sheer bodysuits, sexy cutouts and the same agender ethos that first made them such a sparkplug in a stale industry. But the designer also presented denim, which we’ve never seen from him, and there was a distinct erotic energy surging through the pieces that’s been noticeably absent from previous seasons. In fact, part of what made BARRAGÁN so interesting, was its ability to incorporate nudity without ever feeling sexy. But the S/S ’18 collection was just that—and in such a radical way.
Aside from its newfound sexiness, the range also included more classic pieces, from collared t-shirts to track pants and wife beaters. This was probably the most surprising detail, since Barragán has always stuck with more traditionally feminine fashion, like skirts and halter tops, subverting gender by making them wearable for everyone. With this collection, the designer brought the same attitude to his basics—the track pants were skin-tight, the wife-beaters cropped and even the most obviously masculine moments, like the baggy jeans and boxers combo, felt delicate. That’s the thing about BARRAGÁN—it’s unpredictable and it’s subversive, so it makes sense that as everyone else veers into agender dresses, they’d circle back to the classics. And at the end of the day, that’s what separates a great designer, because I can’t wait to see what he’ll do next.
View photos from the BARRAGÁN S/S ’18 presentation above, and revisit our Behind The Seams with the brand, here.