Photography: Christelle de Castro
Yesterday, the afternoon’s light snowfall began romantically, but as Eckhaus Latta’s fall ’16 presentation at MoMA PS1 grew closer, the weather intensified. Snowflakes became messy, iced over and ugly, only bearing witness to the gratifying scene of a completely packed venue. The show was fittingly held in an igloo-shaped installment called, “The Dome,” and inside, the runway formed a crop circle with chairs facing backwards and forwards—a corn maze of human bodies.
Every season, Eckhaus Latta works comfortably within the non-binary movement, bringing together fashion, culture and fine art beneath one aesthetic umbrella. Designer duo Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus appropriately offered a provocative poem for the collection’s official press release; rather than explaining their process and inspiration pragmatically, they let us gaze into their emotional upheaval:
TWO EXTENSION CORDS
A NOTE ON THE SEPARATION
A NOTE ON THE WHOLE FEELING IT FELT TO FEEL WHOLE
WE THOUGHT IT WAS ABOUT STABILITY, REMEMBER? WE GOT OUT OF THERE
I HAD THE OCEAN FUCK ME 1000×
I WAS SO ANXIOUS THEY CAME
I ALSO CAME AND THEN I MADE THIS; I HAD THIS.
IS THIS LIKE BEING ASKED A QUESTION?
OR IS IT THE FEELING ONE HAS WHILE WATCHING A DOG CHASE ITS OWN TAIL?
RELENTLESS EXPERIENCE INDECISIVENESS
NIB–NEWINBOX NWT – NEW WITH TAG N–NEW
D – DESTROYED
Music pounded like an ecstasy-rolling heartbeat as Eckhaus Latta’s diverse cast spiraled into the space, all of them wearing clothes of non-uniform expression. Garments were earthy and fairy-like—quietly nostalgic without overtly mining past decades for inspiration; names like, “Jumbled skirt,” or, “Pumpkin spice Latta knit boot,” and, “Sage salad bowl hat” reflected the show’s flavorful color palette and child-like bliss.
Using layers of thick and thin knits, glowing velvets and liquid silks, the bicoastal brand sculpted everything together to create smart, minimal silhouettes with an awareness of material comfort and museum-like quality—fitting, considering some of their pieces are currently on display at MoMa’s “Greater New York” exhibition.