Fashion

Future, Meet History: E. Tautz Menswear SS ’14

Fashion

Future, Meet History: E. Tautz Menswear SS ’14

Well-calibrated future history at E. Tautz S/S '14.
Well-calibrated future history at E. Tautz S/S '14.
Well-calibrated future history at E. Tautz S/S '14.
Well-calibrated future history at E. Tautz S/S '14.
Well-calibrated future history at E. Tautz S/S '14.
Well-calibrated future history at E. Tautz S/S '13.
Well-calibrated future history at E. Tautz A/W '13.
Well-calibrated future history at E. Tautz S/S '13.
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It’s far more humane to look at fashion not as a series of collections, but through the underlying visual themas that jut amongst them, like green grass pushing up through cracks in the concrete. And despite E. Tautz‘s storied beginnings on London’s Oxford Street in 1867 and subsequent foray into military tailoring, there is a louche futurism that seeps from between the seams of Patrick Grant’s collections for the ready-to-wear label since its (utterly random) relaunch in ’09.

Grant’s hip spin on the brand, which is owned by a company he acquired having had “no experience in tailoring or fashion” previously and has a $500-2000+ price point, contains a faint wisp of #trustpunk irony. That said, the crisp, spotless fabrics and Saville Row sharpness blend harmoniously with pitch-perfect oddball silhouettes, for a master lesson in future history.

E. Tautz S/S ’14 was a mix of supersaturation and crisp curves, with just enough airiness and youth to avoid the awkward, attention-whoring dandy vibe that is too-often evoked when traditional menswear meets an unconventional color palette. Grant’s vision feels at home alongside other like London labels like Rav Matharu’s Clothsurgeon (I interviewed him in January), who also uses razor-sharp precision to keep the modern from feeling immature.

Browse the above slideshow for my favorite looks from E. Tautz S/S ’14, with a few standouts from previous seasons thrown in (cotton button-down jumpsuit, anyone)? Tuck in your $600 shirt and dig in.