New York menswear duo Duckie Brown has been slimming down their collections, last season presenting only six looks in a lineup aptly titled, “Just a Little Duckie.” Then, the dramatic reduction surprised attending editors, but since fall ’16, traditional fashion presentations have all flipped, as designers frantically search for the best approach to actually make money. At one point, everyone in the industry subscribed to the motto, “more is more,” delivering bigger lineups and bigger productions, but now Duckie Brown is pioneering the opposite ethos, this season unveiling just one look called, “The Essential Duckie.”
The move is daring—maybe too daring, we’ll see—but it’s easily one of the most exciting decisions we’ve seen thus far this season. Duckie Brown has distilled the brand into three key pieces, allowing them to collectively speak louder and more confidently than a full-fledged collection probably would have. Traditional khaki trousers, a navy blazer and white shirt make up the designers’ “preppy, classic uniform” for spring ’17, and while it may more conservative than fashion we typically praise on BULLETT, the concept behind this is truly radical—a rebellious rejection of the standards we’ve all grown to accept in the industry.
Rather than a physical presentation this season, they’ve instead created a poster with photographer Jerry Buttles to send out to editors, featuring “The Essential Duckie.” (See above) The documentary, below, highlights the designers’ creative process, from early loose sketches to final product. “The reason that I love and I do this is, how do you fuck that up and still make it look the same,” they say, discussing the challenge of subverting classic menswear silhouettes. Just how far can you redesign a trouser before it’s no longer a “trouser?” Watch, below: