I feel like my title is pretty self-explanatory, and I don’t need to write much more. But because it’s technically my job to talk a bunch of shit, I’ll go right ahead. First, let’s discuss Haizhenwang: I know, we’re already almost done with PFW, so it’s weird to go back to London—but I figured, everyone is bored by Dior and Balenciaga reviews already, so I might as well #TBT on a Monday. Also, my photographers haven’t gotten me my Paris photos yet. But, I digress. At Haizhenwang this season, the fairly young designer has continued to solidify his brand. What is it? Cool shoes, and this season, a bunch of denim. On the other end of the spectrum is MM6, a solid name in the cool fashion canon, because its Margiela, and doesn’t cost as much. Here’s the thing: most “lesser” brands like Marc by Marc Jacobs, or even Versus Versace, don’t even come close to real thing—and pretty much suck. MM6, on the other hand, consistently delivers spot-on and straightforward clothes, made even cooler by the Margiela avant-garde edge. This season, the brand channeled white-on-white and Sharpie pen graffiti. What could’ve very easily looked like a lame attempt at artsy, actually worked, and that’s because anything with the Margiela (or Galliano) stamp is inherently great. And then there was Ryan Lo. While we’ve been big fans of the last two seasons (a candy colored Harajuku dream followed by a Hello Kitty collab), this season felt part “Like A Virgin,” part Chanel and fell seriously flat. Don’t get me wrong—the clothes were beautiful, and Lo knows how to make a damn dress. But it just felt kind of boring—and overplayed. Lace and white and French-feeling details? How original. And that’s a serious bummer for a designer who’s usual complaints are more like, “Jesus, did he have to use so much?” Let’s just say, I prefer it that way.
But what do I know? View photos from the Haizhenwang, MM6 and Ryan Lo presenations, above.