Fashion

Delpozo’s AW ’15 Collection, a ’60s Nostalgic Haze

Fashion

Delpozo’s AW ’15 Collection, a ’60s Nostalgic Haze

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For AW ‘15, Delpozo Creative Director Josep Font took on a painterly interpretation of the original “Fantasia,” featuring a ’60s-nostalgic haze of deeply saturated primary colors. Perhaps that wasn’t his original source of inspiration, but the connection was undeniable.

Handmade, bulbous knits were shown in happy shades of hunter green and sky blue. A dusty rose crew sweater was decorated with leather panels, creating an abstract bird of paradise, similar to a scene from “Fantasia’s” eerily prescient psychedelia. The shapes were straight out of 1965, with ballooning capes behind a bracelet-length coat and tailored, A-line mini shift dresses. Much of the collection’s dresses and jackets worked an A-line so precisely they may as well have been drawn with rulers.

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Font always pays acute attention to the shape of a woman’s body, regarding it as an aesthetic that can be removed from sexuality. It is, however, a conscious removal and still plays with flirtatiousness in color and form. One of his most successful pieces was a mini dress with a chartreuse turtleneck top and a beaded woolen skirt. Combinations like this subtly embraced sexiness without being overt—a theme of innocent courtship that strung throughout Font’s collection.

This makes sense; one of Delpozo’s biggest fans is “Mad Men’s” Kiernan Shipka, an actress known for her quietly sophisticated style. She’d look dazzling in one of Delpozo’s sequined oxfords and prim mini-skirts. Delpozo’s heels would suit her well, too, with doll-like round toes and a daring, vertiginous heel that ensured the daintiness was well balanced.

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Some of the pieces were essentially demi-couture. They took root in an emerging market of highly decorated garments, which have provided a cushion for dragging retail sales in the recession’s aftermath. Suddenly it’s become more practical to spend a lot upfront on a semi-bespoke gown that would last years—a “piece de resistance” that could easily survive all cyclical trends.

The fanciful collection boasted a number of red carpet contenders, including a dashing scarlet gown with origami shapes around the shoulders and, perhaps the sexiest touch to the collection, a neck-to-ankle length zipper that could be zipped up to show as much or as little skin as needed. Delpozo provided mature glitz in the form of 3-dimensional sequined embellishments that resembled floral gardens, complete with accompanying greenery. The finale gown, in particular, was splashed with blue flowers that seemed like birds in flight, atop a layer of fluffy tulle—Delpozo has always been one to embrace drama.