Held in the austere concrete setting of the Garage Turenne, Damir Doma’s A/W ’14 runway was a study in subtle contrasts. Black hues were paired with tinges of navy, dark gray with light gray. Garments had divergent fabrics sheathing torso and sleeves, creating a sly sense of surprise. These tonal distinctions were sometimes forsaken for monochrome looks, such as an inverted cotton jaquard suit in a curious oat color, or a single-button suit in a marvelously purpled midnight shade. Pallid beige turtlenecks went under many of the suits and coats, like a second skin. Tapered charcoal trousers were interspersed with billowing, cropped wide-leg pants. Accessories included black leather gloves, and somehow the quintessential grandpa look of pulled-up black socks with black shoes looked cool in context, though the footwear then shifted to more overtly stylish lace-ups in pony, calf, and wool flannel. Short-sleeved Nehru tops had an unexpected horizontal zipper at the chest, a detail à la metropolitan pseudo-kangaroo. Bulky PVC down jackets in patent leather called up the ’90s without screaming ‘retro,’ while long black double-breasted coats gave off a chic, don’t-mess-with-this hitman vibe. It was all about understated masculine sleek, exuding something serious and a little dark.