Artwork: Pierre-Louis Auvray
Even though Fashion Month has been over for a few weeks, we’re still obsessing over the best looks—and trying to recover from the rest of them. As you know from our NYFW roundup, designers this season were all about fanny packs, denim-on-denim and prints on prints on prints. More popular trends included: fringe, feathers, oversized blazers, bra tops and a vinyl overload. The low points? One shoulder tops and yellow everything—oh, and Marc Jacobs. But really, there was a lot of redundancy on the runway this season, with designers not doing what they do best, but what they think will go viral. Take Alexander Wang, for example—I really don’t have anything new to say about the disaster that was his S/S ’18 collection, but when a designer spends more time deciding what his show’s hashtag should be…well, that’s the sad state of fashion.
Of course, that doesn’t mean there weren’t some highlights. From NAMILIA’s pussy-centric presentation to Shayne Oliver’s debut at Helmut Lang, there were a lot of great moments on the runway this season. So, for the sake of not always being completely negative, we’ve rounded up all of our favorite Fashion Month looks, with the help of Pierre-Louis Auvray. You may remember the artist and Central Saint Martins student from Gucci’s F/W ’17 campaign that they completely ripped off from his amazing Instagram—that, or you’ve stumbled on @forbiddenkn0wledge yourself, and fell in love with his bizarre designs. We did, so we tapped him to recreate the best of S/S ’18. View the results, below.
First on our list is Balenciaga. Though we are kind of sick of Demna (sorry, world), we can’t deny this season had some pretty good moments. From the Ben Franklin and newsprint prints, to the Twin Peaks-esque watercolor pants and jean-cargo hybrids, the Balenciaga collection was a winner, for sure.
Next is the Vaquera credit card dress. Basically, if you have a phone, you’ve seen and/or read something about this look over the last two weeks. And for once, the hype is actually worth it.
Yeah, yeah, yeah, Shayne Oliver at Helmut Lang—we know everyone has been busy raving about this collection (and pretty much everything the new Creative Director has done since taking over the brand). But they’re right—Oliver’s S/S ’18 collection was daring enough to be radical, wearable enough that everyone wants every piece, and sleek enough to actually look like Helmut Lang. Oh, and did we mention it was really fucking good?
I’ve already written enough positive words about the NAMILIA S/S ’18 collection to last an entire lifetime (or at least, until next season), but I just can’t get enough of that vagina-inspired baroque couture. From labia sleeves, skirts and blouses, to oversized embroidered breasts, the range was built for empowered women who grab back.
Next is Margiela. I hate flying and somehow, the S/S ’18 collection made me want to run to the airport (it was probably all the aviation-inspired accessories). The brand mixed utilitarian trenchcoats and trousers with completely over-the-top feathered dresses, that are probably the most uncomfortable thing you could ever wear traveling. But obviously, I would, because it’s Margiela.
New York brand AREA shook things up this season by showing a line of daytime looks—a stark contrast to their usually barely-there clubwear. The result was an ’80s/’90s mix of tracksuits, rompers and really great hair.
Comme des Garçons
Oh, Comme des Garçons. You can’t even really tell that Auvray edited this image, because Rei Kawakubo would definitely cast aliens and send them down the runway covered in toys and octopus tentacles—I think she probably has. And yes, I’m a sucker for Hello Kitty, but that’s not the only reason I loved this collection. It’s Kawakubo’s never-ending mix of ingenuity, innovation and straight-up insanity that makes Comme des Garçons a BULLETT fave.
For the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace’s death, Donatella decided to honor her brother by presenting all of the brand’s most classic moments. From the gaudy prints of the early ’90s to a set of sleek and sexy little black dresses, Donatella covered all of the late great designer’s best looking outfits. Our favorites? The Marilyn Monroe, James Dean and Vogue print dresses, inspired by Andy Warhol.
While almost everyone else was busy addressing politics, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon decided they just wanted to have fun with fashion. That manifested in a shitload of colors, patterns, lengths and stripes in what was hands-down one of the season’s best collections. Sure, Kenzo is always bright and colorful (and good), but the S/S ’18 collection was completely enchanting—especially in a sea of oversized hoodies and leather leggings (we’re still looking at you, Wang).
Last but not least, comes Y/Project (who we already said won Fashion Month). Every single piece of the collection was pretty much perfect, so it was impossible to pick only one favorite. The above is basically the cool girl’s answer to a wedding dress, and almost makes me want to get married—almost.
So, if there’s one thing we learned this season, it’s that we still hate the color yellow—and that fashion can be really boring. But when it is good, it has the ability to change everything—and that’s why we’re still writing about it.