The Scandinavians are known to embrace minimalism, so it comes as no surprise that it pervaded Stockholm’s A/W ’15 Fashion Week. The feeling of simplicity was complemented with shades of grey, navy blue, nude and plenty of black. Pinches of androgyny, drops of seduction and doses of luxury strung from show-to-show. Designers played with opposing elements, like voluminous silhouettes paired with slim, sleek details. We’ve listed our five favorite Stockholm collections—some wearable and others black sheep.
Erik Bjerkesjö’s collection ran confidently with blacks, whites and splashes of cobalt blue on shoes, belts and jacket details—a perfect color scheme paired with models’ red makeup. The presentation was minimal and innovative, offering a number of statement pieces like beautifully tailored coats and washed denim jackets. Watch the Johan von Reybekiel-directed clip, “Acre State,” for a closer look at the collection.
The name on everyone’s lips this season is not easily pronounced. Altewaisaome, a new label by Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome, has quickly become the star of Stockholm’s fashion industry. This season, they played it a bit safer than usual. Famous for their street-inspired aesthetic and bold, expressive garments, they seem to have switched from the younger audience to the older workingwoman. Sophisticated colors in the form of tailored, cropped trousers and boxy coats and skirts were prominent throughout the collection. Maybe this is a new age for Altewai and Saome, but their work is still a standout.
Born in Bosnia and raised in Sweden, Lamija aims to create a meeting point for the two through her designs. This young designer—named, “Talent of the Year,” by Vogue Italia in 2011—fused the sculptural silhouettes and intricate details of traditional Balkan costumes with more modern styles. Materials like silk, wool and leather were fashioned by pulling inspiration from the human anatomy, according to Lamija. Every handmade stitch and detail demonstrated the designer’s sheer talent, giving the collection an haute couture edge.
House of Dagmar
Inspired by Alexander Roslin’s painting, “The Lady with the Veil,” House of Dagmar created voluminous hoods, shawls and layering pieces to reflect its ominous, secretive feel. Stunning geometric prints and oversized cuts appeared in a cohesive color palette of blue, rust, chocolate and shades of white.
Cheap Monday’s show was on fire, literally. Inspired by, “Lord of Flies,” models were dressed in the classic Cheap Monday sailor stripes, marching beside billowing flames. The designers described their presentation as half army and tribal, half pirate and punk. Printed patches, broken and tied garments in jerseys, threadbare knits, crumpled sweats and black velvet all permeated the collection. Though black and white were the main colors, subtle touches of red made appearances, as if models just returned home from a wild, deserted island. As “Lord of the Flies” states, ‘’the strongest survive,’’ and this season Cheap Monday truly did.
Additional reporting by Justin Moran.