Photography: Clara Delaporte
Since last season, Mexico City-born designer, Victor Barragán has been solidifying his place as one of fashion’s most exciting emerging voices. Now, after ditching New York for the runways of Paris, it seems our favorite outsider brand has found its groove. But even as the brand continues to grow, Barragán sticks to his counter-cultural roots, never conforming to the industry, even as he succeeds in it.
The Barragán Fall ’17 collection was, in ways, more subdued than the last—first, a provocative presentation that was livestreamed on sex cam site, Cam 4, and then, a Sisyphus-themed presentation-turned-installation piece. Since then, Barragán seems to have learned he doesn’t need theatrics to be heard, his clothes subversive enough in themselves. Meticulously placed cutouts highlighted the human form, as the collection explored sexuality and fluidity through shape and texture. Sheer fabrics played with illusion, gender placing no barrier on Barragán’s understanding of tailoring and silhouette. Leather, velvet and iridescent fabrics lent a sweet romanticism to an otherwise serious collection, that still knew how to have a sense of humor.
But the thing about Barragán that separates him from other industry newcomers, is his lack of compromise. The designer has maintained his vision since the brand’s inception, never wavering on what constitutes the Barragán DNA, in search of hype or some form of fleeting commercial success. His designs have undoubtedly matured, while always maintaining the rebellious voice that made them so exciting from the beginning.
This season was a much sharper Barragán, with more nuance and less surface-level drama. Instead, the designs themselves were dramatic, and filled with both subtlety and exaggerated detail, creating a juxtaposition that left the collection feeling abstract, but never like it was trying too hard. The worst thing an artist can do is lose themselves in search of making a name or trying to stay relevant. Barragán doesn’t have to because he already has both of those things—but more importantly, because his vision is something revolutionary.
View photos from the Barragán AW ’17 collection, above.