Photography: Helle Moos
We live in a time when it’s easy to ignore your own voice, instead reacting to the noise of saturated news or bottomless social media as a core catalyst for producing work. In fashion, the result of this new norm is a sea of collections that look like responses to the world we’re already immersed in. They’re familiar and aesthetically immediate, when dress has the potential to visually reflect the untouched, inner-workings of a designer’s psyche.
For fall ’16, Astrid Andersen rebuked the contemporary standard “to create an honest and authentic expression of her personal vision.” Perhaps this is why her work never comfortably falls beneath the homogenous “streetwear” umbrella, seasonally laced with elements of fantasy that dramatize the concept of modern-day “hip-hop royalty” by subtly echoing the luxe style of century-old Monarchs. Her coats, in particular, resemble something ancient Royals might indulge in if they were reigning today, designed with lavish fur-lined hoods and sophisticated panels.
Fabric research and development played a major role in Anderson’s latest, pulling in quilted nylons, technical fine-gage polyamide and luxury wools. She also sought to advance the conversation surrounding menswear-appropriate textiles by playing with lace and fur—a means to push mainstream conventions, while staying true to Andersen’s ethos. See a sampling of her newly unveiled lookbook, above, and enjoy the London presentation’s soundtrack, below, made in collaboration with Red Bull Catwalk Studios.