Photography: Alice Berg
It was all black Matrix vibes at the Haider Ackermann Fall ’17 presentation this week. Tailored suiting, leather trench coats and a subtle dystopian feel gave the collection a futuristic slant, filtered through the lens of Ackermann’s timeless elegance. Mostly minimalist, but with a maximalist energy, the Haider Ackermann AW ’17 collection joined the brand’s inimitable ease with an undeniable paranoia, present in both the designer’s fabric choice and styling details. This season, the Haider Ackermann woman was androgynous, more powerful than feminine, with a lingering uncertainty beneath each structured blazer and pant. As reality becomes less frivolous, so does fashion, with Ackermann’s latest collection serving as the sartorial embodiment of the world’s inability to gauge what’s coming next.
But beyond the collection’s inherent cynicism, remains the designer’s innate ability to deliver palpable emotion with every piece. Even through an almost all-black palette, Ackermann proves innovative and exciting, reinterpreting sexiness through undefined shape. Mostly menswear-inspired, and with all the models wearing black bowl-cuts, the collection oozed sexiness with its nuance and artfulness. It’s easy to feel hot in a skintight skirt and stilettos—not so much in an oversized suit. But Ackermann’s collection paired shapeless moments with feminine touches, like a white bowed halter or ostrich feathered sleeves, to create an effortless mix of femininity and romanticism that was less obvious, more powerful. As a reaction to our over-stimulated, hyper-indulgent selfie culture, Ackermann’s vision was clear—try less, be stronger. In an age where weight is measured in likes so everything must be Instagrammable, the Haider Ackermann collection was radical and refreshing—all about stripping back to make a louder point.
View the Haider Ackermann AW ’17 collection, above.