As Christopher Kane prepares to show for the first time under the umbrella of French luxury conglomerate PPR, we remember fondly the excitement of his first collection after leaving Versace. With that same electricity in mind, we look to Britain’s promising young designers on the eve of London Fashion Week.
Ashley Williams already counted Pixie Geldof and Alice Dellal as a fans when she gained global notoriety as Rhianna donned her all-over prints on her 2012 tour. The success of the University of Westminster graduate’s ‘Happy Ashley’ collection caught Lulu Kennedy of Fashion East’s eye. With their support and a show at the Tate Modern Tanks this season, you can expect a further sparkling of glitter dust on William’s career.
Christopher Raeburn designs for a survivalist woman. His SS13 collection used tech fabrics to create a neutral collection that would actually wear well in English weather – no Black Cab required! The RCA graduate has already won an award for his innovation in menswear, so we’re glad he’s taking care of the ladies as well. His ideal client is someone who’s ethically intelligent and proud to sport his designs because they are all made in England.
Having studied at Central Saint Martins for both his BA and MA in fashion, David Koma has a strong vision that’s caught the British Fashion Council’s eye – gaining him support through their Fashion Forward program. The Georgian born designer works with contrasting fabrics to accentuate a woman’s body, with a curvy chest for his AW12 collection and a cinched waist last season. David’s forthcoming collection promises to incorporate rhythm and movement, and were excited to see which body part he’ll tweak this time around!
Huishan Zhang spent a year at Dior after graduating with an MA from Central Saint Martins. This week the Chinese born designer will present his fourth collection and plans to stay true to his roots, designing to mesh east and west. Huishan has become known for his take on the Cheongsam dress; a body hugging one piece dress traditional in Chinese clothing. As prints were all the rage last season, a strong wind from the east has hit fashion designers this season, and we expect Zhang to shine as a leader in the trend.
Meeting at fashion school in their native Portugal, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida went on to study together toward an MA at Central Saint Martins resulting in East London based Marques’Almeida. The duo have a presentation this Saturday and we’re keen to see the evolution of their work interpretation of raw materials like denim and silk into work wear pieces. The duo design for ‘the quietly defiant woman’ and with a promise of red white and blue sportswear this season, it might be hard to ‘just say no.’
Roberto Piqueras’ Facebook post reads: “Again new season and no official place to show our collection, so this time for our AW13 collection we choose the official place of London Fashion Week but back as the “backstreet boys” we really are ^^” Punk is alive and well in this Spanish designer who will hold an unscheduled (gasp!) show outside the Terrace Rooms at the back of Somerset House from 1:30 – 2pm on Friday the 15th of February. Roberto’s last runway show took place a year ago on an estate (the British term for Project Housing) and his digital prints were right on trend and then some. Images of the queen with diamonds coming out of her eyes may be manifest destiny this season as London Fashion Week is still a very royal affair. Perhaps Piquera’s models might receive extra accessories courtesy of her majesties police force, otherwise I bet he’ll have a place if he wants it come next season!
Simone Rocha was the name on everyones lips last London Fashion Week. During a season a flurry with optic prints, Simone’s neutral collection was a breath of fresh air, full of innovative fabrics and design, yet totally wearable, quiet and sophisticated. This quiet confidence could be linked back to her father John Rochas and the family business that is probably a mine of wisdom, tips and tricks. Standing on the shoulders of giants should be done when he opportunity is there, and it looks good on Ms Rocha!
Sister By Sibling
Sister By Sibling was launched by Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery after each having positions through out the fashion industry. Now that they’ve joined up, they appear to be a force to reckon with and seem to have a blast doing it. Known for pom pom headpieces and covering their model’s faces, the trio say they are constantly looking to art for inspiration and promise their third collection will cover all things crochet, glitter, spots and dots!